2 Editor’s Note
6 Scientific Advisors
16 C&T Summit Highlights
64 Advertiser Index
8 Five Beauty Trends Driving Growth
by I. Szalai
10 Finished Product Launches
11 Read the Label: Ole Henriksen Ultimate Lift
Eye Crème by S. Raffy
12 Technology Launches
18 The Challenges of the Personal Care
Products Safety Act
22 Validating the Effectiveness of Rubbing on
by N. Mohajerani, K. Afzali and H.I. Maibach
26 Traditional and Modern Indian Color
Cosmetics by V. Kumar Singh
34 Shielding and Repairing Tooth Enamel with
Carboxymethyl Cellulose by T. Welss et al.
42 Analytical Techniques for Hyaluronic Acid
by J. Duffy, Ph.D., and B. Sabagh, Ph.D.
50 Applied Neuroscience to Understand
by M.M. Niedziela, Ph.D., E. Carbone and
Cover art by James Fergus
C&T SEPTEMBER 2015
HOW ARE YOU THINKING?
EDITOR’S NOTE | C&T
Whether you’re in the lab working on a new formula or
ingredient or I’m in my office, pounding away on my keyboard,
we share at least one common task in our jobs: We’re expected to
conceive new ideas.
For you, it’s new ideas for cosmetic products—new formulations
or new applications for existing formulations. For me, it’s new
ideas for content—new articles or new applications for presenting
information to you. For both of us, the ultimate goal is to develop
something new that’s going to engage our respective audiences and
drive revenue for our companies.
The next big thing. You’ve heard it before. Ever since Mark
Zuckerberg infamously took the algorithm from his Harvard
dorm room window, everybody wants to come up with or be, “the
Okay, the dorm room scene from “The Social Network” was
Hollywood drama, but the point it plays out rings true: Sometimes
it takes unconventional thinking to come up with that next big
thing. And that was a point that Jeffrey Baxter, founding member of
classic rock band Steely Dan and a national security consultant for
the U.S. government, drove home during his keynote presentation
at Cosmetics & Toiletries Summit in Philadelphia.
Sometimes the big idea comes straight out of an element we
already know; an existing product, ingredient, etc. The trick is to
strip that element down to its most basic components and then
reassemble them into something new.
“Consider a basketball player,” Baxter told summit attendees.
“He anticipates defensive moves, reacts in real-time and strategizes
on the fly. He’s analyzing moves, synthesizing a plan, creating new
That kind of thinking could have real impact for those in the
cosmetics industry in the months ahead as numerous challenges
and opportunities await:
• As we mentioned last month, the Personal Care Products
Safety Act—a.k.a. the “Feinstein Bill”—potentially changes
the landscape for cosmetic manufacturers. Read Rob Ross-Fichtner’s take on the bill on Page 8.
• Product customization is a trend that intrinsically lends itself
to unconventional thinking. See how that approach applies to
other trends on Page 8.
Consumers are always willing to jump on, “the next big thing.”
How will you apply unconventional thinking to come up with it?
Your lab awaits.
Vol. 130, No. 7 | September 2015