60 | www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Vol. 131, No. 3 | April 2016
FORMULATING | C&T
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The universal desire for a suntan continues to decrease year after year. This is due to research into the harmful effects of the sun being widely publicized and accepted by both the public and the skin care industry.
In the European Union, sunscreen products are considered cosmetics
and their effectiveness tested in vivo or in vitro to determine four effectiveness indicators: the Sun Protection Factor (SPF), the UVA Protection Factor
(PF-UVA), the SPF/PF-UVA ratio and the critical wave length. When
used correctly, sunscreen products protect us from sunburn as well as
The once clear boundaries between skin care and sun-care product
categories are now less well defined; daily moisturizers contain SPF 15
protection and suntan lotions often include anti-aging claims. However, “a
product for the beach will always be recognized as such, even if it contains
additional e.g. anti-aging ingredients; and a face care cream with SPF 20 still
remains in the bathroom. Consumers will know the difference and having
sun protection included in day care formulas is a good development,” said
Karl Lintner, Ph.D., a consultant to the personal care industry. 1
Appealing to Vanity Promotes
Daily Sun Protection
The decision to incorporate SPF into face creams and makeup began
more than 10 years ago. Nowadays, SPF 15 in a day moisturizer is the norm.
However, UVA radiation also has detrimental effects on the skin; it induces
molecular, cellular and clinical damage.
Offering a wide spectrum of protection is essential as daily broad-spectrum sunscreen can slow photo-aging in as little as four years in
middle-aged adults. Young people respond better to anti-aging than
anti-cancer messages and visual examples of aging are particularly effective
in motivating teens to avoid indoor tanning and pursue consistent sun
Daily use of sunscreen significantly reduces lifetime UV exposure to
the face; the most important factor is to begin regular use early in life. The
SPF and spectral profile of the product is of lesser importance, as is whether
daily use is confined to the summer months rather than year-round. 3
Topical application of a daily moisturizer with broad-spectrum
Katerina Steventon, Ph.D.
Independent Skincare Consultancy East Yorkshire, UK
Incorporating Sun Protection Into
Daily Product Alters Behavior
Not Just for the
sun • protection •
sunscreen • spf •
factor • skin • cancer •
prevention • anti-aging
The boundaries between
skin care and sun care
have been torn down
as consumers seek sun
protection for its anti-aging
effects just as much as
they do its cancer-fighting