A DERMATOLOGICAL VIEW by Bahman Sotoodian and Howard I. Maibach, MD
Eye Color Cosmetics and Contact Dermatitis
Howard I. Maibach, MD,
is professor of dermatology,
University of California School
of Medicine, San Francisco. His
laboratory has been interested
in and has published extensively
on dermatopharmacology and
dermatotoxicology.
Bahman Sotoodian is a third year medical student
at the University of British Columbia (UBC). He
obtained his bachelor of applied science degree
in electronic engineering from Simon Fraser
University, and his interest in dermatology led
him to the University of California Medical School
in San Francisco.
Contact dermatitis is defined as
dermatitis resulting from skin’s direct
contact with irritating compounds. It
is generally either an allergic reaction
or an irritant-induced inflammatory
presentation. Contact dermatitis can
occur on different areas of the body,
such as the hands, back and face-even
the eyelids. In comparison with facial
skin, palms of the hands and other
body parts, the stratum corneum of the
eyelids is thinner, which contributes
to an enhanced rate of chemical diffusion into skin layers,1 and due to the
moderate thinning of eyelid stratum
corneum, contact dermatitis from
irritants may occur even at low excipient
concentrations.2
During exercise, eyelids are exposed
considerably to excessive sweat, and the
oxidizing capacity of sweat has been
shown to enhance penetration of ions
such as nickel into the epidermal layer.
Therefore, ion and chemical absorption from cosmetic products may be
enhanced due to eyelid contact with
sweat.3 Hence, it has been recommended
that eye shadow be applied after drying
the underlying skin to reduce the risk of
absorbing pigments and toxic elements.
Following is an overview of research
correlating, even at trace amounts,
raw materials present in eye area color
cosmetics with contact dermatitis.
Nickel in Mascara
and Eye Shadow
Studies have demonstrated the probable correlation between nickel allergy
and eyelid dermatitis after the use of
eyelash curlers,4 eye pencils,5 mascaras6
or eye shadows.7 The repeated use of
nickel-containing cosmetic products
induces skin sensitization and elicits
allergic reactions upon further skin
exposure with the irritant. Basketter et al.
investigated the safety of nickel in
consumer products and concluded that
it should be present at levels of no more
than 5 ppm.8 In a patch test, more than
90% of patients having skin sensitivi-ties to nickel failed to demonstrate any
reaction to nickel at levels below 1 ppm,
even on irritated skin regions. Thus,
a long-term goal should be to restrict
nickel levels to 1 ppm.
Metals and Arsenic
in Eye Shadow
Regulations around cosmetics do not
define restrictions or limitations for the
presence of elements such as metals or
arsenic in products,9 and many of these
substances are incorporated as impurities in the raw materials used to produce
them. A Finnish study investigated
the presence of lead, cobalt, nickel,
chromium and arsenic in a broad range
of eye shadows. It found that 75% of
the eye shadows contained more than
5 ppm metal, and the presence of cobalt
and nickel was maximized at 41 ppm
and 49 ppm, respectively.9 For consumers with previous metal sensitizations,
these cobalt and nickel levels could elicit
allergic presentations such as eyelid
eczema and erythematous, scaly rashes
over the eyelids. On the other hand,
the highest concentration of arsenic
and lead were substantially low, resting
at 2.3 ppm and 20 ppm, respectively,
presenting presumably safe levels in eye
shadows. Only one product contained
a high, 318 ppm level of chromium
but only a few eye shadows contained
the water-soluble chromium metal in
concentrations of more than 2 ppm.
Based on the research presented here,
it can be concluded that eye shadows do
not have considerable systemic toxicological influence for general consumers.
However, individuals who have previously been sensitized to metals may
face challenges, mainly arising from
these elements, as impurities, not being
listed in the product ingredient list.9 In
addition, there is no firm evidence of
a dose-response relationship between
metals in eye shadow and clinical
manifestations of ACD.
Shellac in Mascara
Shellac is the resinous secretion
of Coccus lacca, an insect that feeds
on trees in India and southern Asia.
856 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Vol. 126, No. 12/December 2011
