SUN CARE FORMULARY
D. Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (CoVera, HallStar) 0.50
Alcohol (SDA 40B Organic Alcohol 190, Kinetik Technologies) 62.05
E. Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer (Dermacryl 79, AkzoNobel) 2.00
100.00
Procedure: Add A to secondary vessel and start center-stir (prop) mixing. Heat
A to 50°C, and add B to A. When homogeneous and clear, add C to AB and
cool when uniform. To the primary vessel add D. With continued mixing, add E
to D. Add ABC to DE with mixing. When uniform and clear, perform final quality assurance checks and package product. Product is a clear, lemon yellow
liquid with pH 6.10.
Luxurious W/O Sunscreen with SPF 30
(Honeywell)
This rich, luxurious w/o sunscreen has a polymer to help improve the film-forming,
SPF and after feel.
A. Cetyl PEG/PPG-10/1-Dimethicone (proposed)
Hexyldecanol
Cyclopentasiloxane (DC 345 Fluid, Dow Corning)
C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate
Cetyl Dimethicone
Ethylene/VA Copolymer (Asensa CL 300, Honeywell)
C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Stearalkonium Hectorite (and)
Propylene Carbonate (Bentone Gel TN V, Elementis PLC) 5.00
B. Titanium Dioxide/Aluminum Hydroxide/Dimethicone/Methicone
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (and) Triethoxycaprylylsilane
(GCP50ZSI, Kobo Products)
Homosalate
Octinoxate (proposed)
C. Water (aqua)
Butylene Glycol
Sodium Chloride
Hydroxyethylcellulose (Natrosol 250 HHR, Aqualon/Hercules)
Ethylparaben (and) Methylparaben (and) Phenoxyethanol (and)
Propylparaben (Microcare PM3, Thor Specialties (UK))
5.00% w/w
3.00
2.00
7.00
2.00
6.00
9.50
10.00
7.50
33.75
3.00
0.50
0.75
1.00
100.00
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 80–90°C. Add B individually to A and mix well.
Homogenize for 3–5 min at 3,500 rpm. Continue sweep mixing. Separately mix
C individually and heat to 65°C until uniformly translucent and viscous. Add C
slowly to AB. Continue mixing until uniform. Switch to sweep mixing and cool
to 40°C. Homogenize for 5 min at 5,500 rpm. Cool with sweep mixing to 30°C
and package.
Sun Protection Moisturizer
(Honeywell)
The incorporation of polyethylene in this formula helps to boost the SPF, inhibit
moisture loss in the skin, and provide water resistance.
A. Water (aqua)
Methylpropanediol
Tetrasodium EDTA
Carbomer
Xanthan Gum
B. Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Polyethylene (Asensa PR 200, Honeywell)
Dimethicone
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165,
165 VEG, Croda Inc.)
Benzophenone-3
Ethylhexyl Palmitate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
C. Triethanolamine
D. Preservatives
42.15% w/w
2.50
0.10
15.00
10.00
7.50
2.00
1.00
1.00
4.00
7.50
4.00
3.00
0.25
qs
100.00
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 80°C. Combine B and heat to 95°C. Add B to
A with stirring. Add C to AB. Cool to 45°C and add D. Homogenize (Silverson
@ 5000 rpm for 5 min) and package.
SPF 50 Sunscreen Lotion
(Lipo Chemicals Inc.)
This ~SPF 50 sunscreen lotion demonstrates the improved skin feel properties of
the emulsifier system.
A. Water (aqua)
B. Carbomer (Carbopol Ultrez 10 Polymer, Noveon/Lubrizol)
C. Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol (and) Methylparaben (and) Butylparaben (and)
Isobutylparaben (and) Ethylparaben (and) Propylparaben
(Liposerve PP, Lipo Chemicals) 1.00
Glycereth-26 (Liponic EG-1, Lipo Chemicals) 1.50
D. Polyamide Copolymer (proposed) (Orgasol Caresse,
Lipo Chemicals) 3.00
C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate (Liponate NEB, Lipo Chemicals) 9.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-40 Stearate
(and) Ceteareth-20 (Lipomulse Luxe, Lipo Chemicals) 4.50
Octinoxate (proposed) (Neo Heliopan Type AV, Symrise) 7.50
Octisalate (proposed) (Neo Heliopan Type OS, Symrise) 5.00
Benzophenone-3 (Neo Heliopan BB, Symrise) 4.00
Octocrylene (Neo Heliopan 303, Symrise) 10.00
VP/Eicosene Copolymer (Ganex V- 220, ISP) 2.50
Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (Panalane L-14E, Lipo Chemicals) 1.00
Vitamin E Acetate 0.10
E. Sodium Hydroxide 0.10
100.00
Procedure: In main kettle, weigh out A. Add B to A and begin heating to 75–80°C
with propeller agitation. Mix for a minimum of 30 min or until no gel lumps are
visible. Add C to AB and maintain heat at 75–80°C with propeller mixing. In
side kettle, combine D and heat to 75–80°C. Mix until uniform. Slowly add D to
ABC and mix for 15 min until emulsification is complete. Add E to batch as a
neutralizing agent and mix well. Begin cooling batch with mixing. Cool to 25°C
with mixing. The pH of the batch should be 6.56 + 0.2.
50.60% w/w
0.10
0.10
222 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
