SUN CARE FORMULARY
Beach Sun Lotion SPF 15
2.50% w/w
13.00
3.00
1.00
2.00
Premium Daily Facial Lotion SPF 15
(Croda Europe Ltd.)
This silky feeling day lotion is made with a novel cationic emulsifier combined with
a UV protective blend that delivers elegance for everyday use.
A. Dimethicone (Xiameter PMX- 200 Silicone Fluid 100 cst,
Dow Corning) 5.00% w/w
Isopropyl Isostearate 4.00
Isotridecyl Isononanoate (Crodamol TN, Croda Europe) 2.00
Behentrimonium Methosulfate (and) Cetyl Alcohol (and) Butylene
Glycol (Incroquat Behenyl TMS50, Croda Inc.) 5.00
Cetearyl Alcohol (Crodacol CS90, Croda Europe) 1.00
B. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00
Glycerin 4.00
Sodium Chloride 0.40
C. Titanium Dioxide (and) Isohexadecane (and) Triethylhexanoin
(and) Aluminum Stearate (and) Alumina (and)
Polyhydroxystearic Acid (Solaveil CT- 200, Croda Inc.) 15.00
D. Preservatives 1.00
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 75–80°C. Combine B and heat to75-80°C. Add
C to A while stirring and maintaining temperature. Add B to AC with intensive
stirring. Homogenize for 1 min. Stir/cool, adding D below 40°C. Adjust pH to
6.5–7.0 if required; pH 6.64; viscosity: 40000 mPa.s (Brookfield RVDV1, spindle
94, 5 rpm, 1 min); in vitro SPF: 15; UVA/UVB ratio: 0.434.
Sprayable Sunscreen Lotion
(Croda Inc.)
This sunscreen lotion demonstrates the ability of its phosphate blend to produce a
low viscosity emulsion that is thin enough to spray yet allows for uniform spreading
of the sunscreen actives on the skin.
A. Water (aqua)
B. Xanthan Gum (Keltrol Series, CP Kelco)
C. Glycerin
Cetearyl Alcohol (and) Ceteth-20 Phosphate (and) Dicetyl
Phosphate (Crodafos CS20 A, Croda Inc.)
D. Triethanolamine
E. C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate (Crodamol AB, Croda Europe Ltd.)
Di-PPG-2 Myreth-10 Adipate (Cromollient SCE, Croda Inc.)
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Ethylhexyl Salicylate
Oxybenzone
F. Propylene Glycol (and) Diazolidinyl Urea (and) Methylparaben
(and) Propylparaben (Germaben II, ISP)
64.20% w/w
0.20
5.00
4.00
0.10
3.00
5.00
7.50
5.00
5.00
1.00
100.00
Procedure: Combine A and heat to 75–80°C. Add B to A and allow to completely
hydrate. Add C to AB individually. Once dissolved, add D to ABC and mix well.
Combine E and heat to 75°C. Add E to ABCD and maintain the temperature for
15 min. Cool to 45°C and add F. Cool to desired fill temperature.
Invisible Sun Shield SPF 50+
(Croda Inc.)
This SPF 50+ sunscreen has a “very water-resistant” in vivo SPF rating. The
formulation incorporates a primary emulsifier blend, a citrate to shift the critical
wavelength toward UVA, and an anti-inflammatory.
A. Water (aqua)
B. Propylene Glycol
C. PEG-7 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) Sorbitan Oleate (and) Caprylic/
Capric Triglyceride (and) Water (aqua) (and) Carbomer (and)
Tri-PPG-3 Myristyl Ether Citrate (and) Sorbitan Laurate
(Polasperse QBE, Croda Europe) 3.50
D. Triethanolamine 0.20
E. Octocrylene 2.80
Benzophenone-3 6.00
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Neo Heliopan 357, Symrise) 3.00
Ethylhexyl Salicylate 5.00
Homosalate 10.00
Tris (PPG-3 Benzyl Ether) Citrate (Cromollient ESP, Croda Inc.) 4.00
Theobroma Grandiflorum Seed Butter (Crodamazon Cupuacu,
Croda Inc.)
F. Preservatives
59.40% w/w
5.00
1.00
0.10
100.00
Procedure: Charge A in a vessel and begin propeller agitation. Add B to A and mix.
Disperse C in AB. Once dispersed, begin heating batch to 70–75°C. Neutralize with D. While ABCD is heating, combine E in a separate vessel and heat
to 70–75°C. Once E is completely liquid, add to ABCD with moderate mixing.
Mix thoroughly and begin cooling batch to 40°C. At 40°C, add F. Cool to RT
with continuous mixing.
Broad-spectrum Sunscreen Spray
SPF ~55, PFA (PPD) ~20
(The HallStar Company)
This sprayable sunscreen (non US-approved) provides broad-spectrum protection.
A new singlet state-quenching photostabilizer maintains the formula’s efficacy during sun exposure. In vitro testing shows a UVA1/UV ratio of 0.84.
A. Octocrylene (Neo Heliopan 303, Symrise) 3.60% w/w
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate (Parsol MCX, DSM Nutritional
B. Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine
(Tinosorb S, BASF) 2.50
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Neo Heliopan 357, Symrise) 4.00
C. Tocopheryl Acetate 0.20
Butyloctyl Salicylate (HallBrite BHB, HallStar) 5.00
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene (SolaStay S1, HallStar) 4.00
Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil (and)
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract (CoVera SFO, HallStar) 0.05
D. Alcohol (SDA 40B Organic Alcohol 190, Kinetik Technologies) 58.65
E. Acrylates/Octylacrylamide Copolymer (Dermacryl 79, AkzoNobel) 2.00
100.00
Procedure: Add A to secondary vessel and start center-stir (prop) mixing. Heat
A to 50°C, and add B to A. When homogeneous and clear, add C to AB and
cool when uniform. To the primary vessel, add D with continued mixing. Add E
to D and mix until clear. Slowly add ABC to DE with mixing. When uniform and
clear, perform final quality assurance checks and package product. Product is
a clear, lemon yellow liquid with a pH of 6.52.
Broad-spectrum Sunscreen Spray
SPF 49, PFA (PPD) ~26
(The HallStar Company)
This sprayable sunscreen (non US-approved) provides broad-spectrum protection.
A new singlet state-quenching photostabilizer maintains the formula’s efficacy during sun exposure. In vitro testing shows a UVA1/UV ratio of 0.85.
A. Octocrylene (Neo Heliopan 303, Symrise)
Homosalate
Octyl Salicylate (Neo Heliopan OS, Symrise)
B. Benzophenone-3 (Neo Heliopan BB, Symrise)
Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane (Neo Heliopan 357, Symrise)
C. Tocopheryl Acetate
Butyloctyl Salicylate (HallBrite BHB, HallStar)
Ethylhexyl Methoxycrylene (SolaStay S1, HallStar)
2.75% w/w
10.00
5.00
5.50
3.00
0.20
5.00
4.00
220 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
