respectively, compared with the baseline). In addition, wrinkle volume was
significantly reduced by 10.1%, 1.2% and
15.7% on day 15, 30 and 60, respectively
(p < 0.0001, compared with the baseline). It was therefore concluded that
topical applications of a S. longicruris
compactness and wrinkle appearance
were further evaluated by a dermatologist at all time points of the trial based
on the criteria described in the Materials and Methods section. As shown in
Figure 6, dermatological evaluations
revealed that these parameters were
improved by 80%, 55% and 55%, respectively, for subjects that had applied the
formulation containing S. longicruris for
60 days. These results are in agreement
with the visioscan and cutometry measurements obtained in the same clinical
trial. It is noteworthy that none of the
subjects who had applied the placebo
demonstrated an improvement in the
parameter of wrinkle appearance at any
time point.
Figure 4. Digitalized images of the
skin surface topography a) at baseline
(day 0), and b) after treatment with
S. longicruris for 60 days
formulation significantly improved
the skin surface profilometry (surface
smoothness, wrinkle density and volume) as quantified by analyses.
Skin elasticity: The cell culture and
clinical trial results obtained with the
use of a formulation containing S. longicruris were in line with improvements
of the ECM integrity and skin water
reservoir capability. And since skin
visco-elastic properties rely primarily
on these parameters, the efficacy of
S. longicruris using cutometry measurements was been assessed. Indeed, the
application of a formulation containing
S. longicruris augmented skin elasticity
at all time points of the trial, as shown
in Figure 5. An 11.1% improvement of
skin elasticity was observed at day 15
(p < 0.0001, compared with the
baseline); a 12.7% improvement was
observed at day 30 (p < 0.0001, compared with the baseline); and a 13.0%
improvement was observed on day 60
(p < 0.0001, compared with the baseline). Interestingly, although the action
of S. longicruris progressively increased
throughout the trial, a near-maximal
effect was obtained at day 15 (p > 0.05
for day 15, versus day 30 or day 60).
Dermatologist evaluations: Visual
improvements of skin smoothness,
Figure 5. Effect of S. longicruris on the skin visco-elastic properties
Conclusions
Skin has to cope with a double aging
threat; one intrinsic, or genetically
driven, and one actinic where skin is
prone to environmental stressors. The
structural and functional integrity of
the dermis and the epidermis become
progressively diminished upon intrinsic
aging, and more acutely by actinic aging.
Increased MMP activity and the ensuing
breakdown of fibrillar components of
the ECM, compromised skin barrier
and the weakening of the skin antioxidant defense network are examples of
the consequences of aging-linked skin
alterations. On a more aesthetic aspect,
skin dryness, skin sagging and the
appearance of wrinkles visually translate
the ongoing aging process.
The efficacy of S. longicruris in
cell-based assays and clinical trials demonstrated the material’s anti-aging effect.
For example, the results reported in the
cDNA experiments have shown that
S. longicruris has the ability to restore
gene expression observed in senescent
skin cells to levels close to those
detected in young ones. In addition,
clinical benefits of S. longicruris were
Table 3. Skin Surface Profilometry Measurements (% variation) p < 0.005, p < 0.0001
Day 15
Day 30
Day 60
Skin surface smoothness
Placebo S. longicruris
2.0 12.2**
2.2 13.6**
2.9 17.8**
Skin wrinkling density
Placebo S. longicruris
-0.6 -4.9*
-1.1 -7.5*
-2.0 -11.5**
Wrinkle volume
Placebo S. longicruris
-0.9 -10.1**
-1.4 -11.2**
-1.6 -15.7**
214 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
