also observed that heating was found to
cause darkening, although the addition
of FM to a formulation at 45°C post-emulsification maintained its stability.
In the authors’ opinions, a dark,
brownish colored product may not be
appealing to consumers, and after evaluation of all formula types made with
FM (see Figure 5), the w/o emulsions
stood out as an effective way to mitigate
the color of the FM; since FM is water-soluble, this color may be concealed in
the internal phase of the w/o emulsion.
Two additional ideas were tested for
FM color mitigation, the first including
the addition of 0.1% titanium dioxide
into one of the darker emulsions with
FM—i.e., the o/w emulsion (anionic/
nonionic). Compared with a control
of the emulsion with FM, the addition
of titanium dioxide brightened the
emulsion to a lighter color. For the
second idea, FM was added into a color
foundation formula in which its own
combination of color pigments proved
effective in masking FM’s color.
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References
Send e-mail to n.dayan@lipochemicals.com.
1. M Denda and S Fuziwara, Visible radiation
affects epidermal permeability barrier recovery:
Selective effects of red and blue light, J Invest
Dermatol 128 1335–1336 (2008)
2. M Schmuth et al, Permeability barrier function
of skin exposed to ionizing radiation, Arch
Dermatol 137 1019–1023 (2001)
3. J Moan, Visible light and UV radiation, available at www.uio.no/studier/emner/matnat/fys/
FYS3610/h04/undervisningsmateriale/Moan7.
pdf (accessed Jan 26, 2011)
Summary
HEV light is an important source of
skin damage that is not fully addressed
with current approaches in sunscreen
protection. The present work describes
the creation of a compound to shield
skin from HEV light, including several
challenges this approach poses; for
instance, the difficulty in producing a
compound that will absorb at the blue
wavelength range with minimal absorption in the red wavelength region that
also does not penetrate the skin.
Formulating with the compound
also presented challenges because in
order to provide the described benefits,
it must impart color. Additionally, formulations containing this compound
must remain compatible with other
common cosmetic ingredients and
stable in cosmetic formulations. The
work described herein shows how FM
can be successfully incorporated into a
variety of common formulation types
without causing any detrimental effects
to formula stability, and that its color
effects were mitigated to a level deemed
acceptable to the authors. Future work
will include consumer preference testing
for sensory acceptance.
Reproduction of all or part of this article without
expressed written consent is prohibited.
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine | 193
