ized so that the two curves crossed at
around 500 nm. Readers should note
that the actual absorption values will
vary with the concentration of melanin
used. However, the curves can be made
to cross at any wavelength desired by
multiplying the FM spectrum by an
appropriate number.
The spectra show the optical absorption values at the different wavelengths
of the visible spectrum. At the red end,
between 600 nm and 780 nm, both
melanins showed relatively low absorption; however FM absorbed less of this
beneficial red light than the standard
melanin. Between 400 nm and 500 nm,
FM absorbed significantly more of the
HEV light than the standard melanin.
At 550 nm, the wavelength at which the
human eye is most sensitive to visible
light,9 FM appears lighter than the standard melanin because it absorbs less light.
Formulating with FM
Since FM showed the ability to absorb
radiation in the visible blue/violet range,
it was then formulated into a selection of
common emulsion, sunscreen, and other
cosmetic formulations (see Table 1) and
compared with formulas omitting FM in
order to explore its physical, chemical
or aesthetic effects on each formula
type. Readers should note that the full
efficacy of FM to provide HEV protection in formulations is currently under
investigation, and initial gene expression
studies are promising; however the
remainder of this article will focus on
how to formulate with the material since
Table 1. Test Formulas Used for the Described Studies
Ingredients
Formula Type
W/O Emulsion Sunscreen
(inorganic actives)
W/O Emulsion Sunscreen
(organic actives)
Nonionic O/W Emulsion
Sunscreen (inorganic actives)
190 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
