FORMULA ANATOMY DECIPHERED
production. Further, açai berry extract is
employed for its antioxidant properties
and astaxanthin to protect the skin from
oxidative stress. A comprehensive list of
the product’s ingredients and functions
is shown in Table 2. The product is
claimed to decrease the appearance of
fine lines and wrinkles, minimize age
spots and hyperpigmentation caused by
sun damage, and improve the elasticity
and luminosity of the skin.
The real issue is whether
a sufficient amount of
these active ingredients
is incorporated into the
formulation.
H2O+ Spa Body Soother Solar Relief
Gel: This gel, shown in Figure 3, contains
a combination of aloe vera, hydrating
marine extracts, sea fennel, wakame,
nori, spirulina, vitamins A, C and E, and
provitamin B to provide antioxidant,
reparative, anti-aging, hydrating and
cooling properties for skin that has been
exposed to the sun. A comprehensive
list of the product’s ingredients and
functions is shown in Table 3.
DERMAdoctor Photodynamic
Therapy Sunlight-Activated Laser
Lotion SPF 30: This photo rejuvenating, solar-powered lotion, shown in
Figure 4, reportedly captures UV light
and transforms it into visible red light, a
proven energy source for eliciting anti-aging effects on the skin. It is formulated
with noni polyphenols and tricalcium to
reportedly absorb and emit energy and
encourage the production of collagen
and elastin fibers. Vitamin D from
shiitake mushroom is included for well-being, as well as the sunscreen booster
benzylidene diemethoxydimethylin-danone and pomegranate, ubiquinone,
vitamin E, cucumber, green tea and
white tea extracts to fight against free
radical damage. A comprehensive list of
the product’s ingredients, functions and
functions is shown in Table 4.
Table 4. DERMAdoctor Photodynamic Therapy Sunlight-Activated
Laser Lotion SPF 30
Active Ingredients
Function
Concentration
Avobenzone
Octinoxate
Octisalate
Oxybenzone
UV Filter
UV Filter
UV Filter
UV Filter
3.0%
7.5
5.0
6.0
Ingredients
Function
Carrier
Emollient
Humectant
Co-Emulsifier
Humectant
Skin Conditioning, Co-solvent
Approx.
Concentration
qs
2.0–4.0
2.0–4.0
2.0–4.0
2.0–4.0
1.0–2.0
Water (aqua)
C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate
Yeast Amino Acids
Polysorbate 20
Glycerin
Butyloctyl Salicylate
Methyl Methacrylate/Glycol
Dimethacrylate Crosspolymer
Stearic Acid
Glyceryl Stearate SE
Tricalcium Phosphate
Cyclohexasiloxane
Cyclopentasiloxane
Sorbitan Oleate
Lentinula Edodes
(Shiitake Mushroom) Extract < 0.1
Benzylidene
Dimethoxydimethylindanone UV Booster 1-3
Morinda Citrifolia Extract Astringent < 0.1
Camellia Oleifera (Green Tea)
Leaf Extract Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant < 0.1
Punica Granatum (Pomegranate)
Fruit Extract Skin Conditioning, Masking Agent < 0.1
Cucumis Sativus (Cucumber)
Fruit Extract Skin Conditioning < 0.1
Arnica Montana Flower Extract Skin Conditioning, Masking Agent < 0.1
Anacyclus Pyrethrum Root Extract Skin Conditioning < 0.1
Sodium Hyaluronate Humectant, Skin Conditioning < 0.1
Ubiquinone Antioxidant < 0.1
Tocopherol Antioxidant < 0.1
Tocopheryl Acetate Antioxidant < 0.1
Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate Antioxidant < 0.1
Carbomer Associative Thickener 0.1–0.5
Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl
Acrylate Crosspolymer
Triethanolamine
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Methylparaben
Ethylparaben
Butylparaben
Propylparaben
Film Forming
Co-emulsifier
Emulsifier
Anti-Caking & Masking
Transient Emollient
Transient Emollient
Emuslifier
1.0–2.0
1.0–2.0
1.0–2.0
0.5–1.0
0.5–1.0
0.5–1.0
0.5–1.0
Emuslion Stabilizer
pH Buffering
Chelating Agent
Preservative
Preservative
Preservative
Preservative
Preservative
0.1–0.25
qs
0.05–0.1
0.1–0.25
0.2
0.05–0.1
0.05–0.1
0.05–0.1
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine | 147
