FORMULA ANATOMY DECIPHERED
Table 2. 3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum (continued)
Ingredients
(continued from Page 145)
Lysolecithin
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate
Synthetic Fluorphlogopite
Titanium Dioxide
Tin Oxide
Potassium Hydroxide
Citric Acid
Sodium Bisulfite
Disodium EDTA
Phenoxyethanol
Caprylyl Glycol
Function
Co-emulsifier
Sunscreen
Viscosity Modifier
Sunscreen
Viscosity Modifier
pH Buffer
pH Buffer
pH Buffer
Chelating Agent
Preservative
Preservative
Approx.
Concentration
< 0.1
2–5
0.1–0.25
1–2
1–2
qs
qs
qs
0.05–0.1
0.1–0.4
0.5–1.0
Table 3. H2O+ Spa Body Soother Solar Relief Gel
Ingredients Function
Approx.
Concentration
Water (aqua)
Glycerin
Propylene Glycol
Glycereth-26
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice
Dimethicone Copolyol
Crithmum Maritimum Extract
Fucus Vesiculosus Extract
Porphyra Umbilicalis Extract
Spirulina Maxima Extract
Himanthalia Elongata Extract
Undaria Pinnatifida Extract
Ulva Lactuca Extract
Panthenol
Butylene Glycol
Allantoin
Carbomer
Methyl Gluceth-20
Benzophenone-4
Disodium EDTA
Imidazolidinyl Urea
Diazolidinyl Urea
Fragrance (parfum)
Triethanolamine
Methylparaben
Propylparaben
FD&C Blue 1 (CI 42090)
D&C Red No. 33 (CI 17200)
D&C Violet No. 2 (CI 60730)
Carrier
Humectant
Botantical Extract Carrier
Humectant, Viscosity Modifier
Soothing
Co-emulsifier
Skin Conditioning
Soothing
Skin Conditioning
Skin Conditioning
Skin Conditioning
Skin Conditioning
Skin Conditioning
Skin Conditioning
Botantical Extract Carrier
Skin Conditioning
Associative Thickener
Humectant
Dye Color Stabilizer
Chelating Agent
Preservative
Preservative
Fragrance
pH Buffer
Preservative
Preservative
Colorant
Colorant
Colorant
qs
2.0–5.0%
qs
1.0–3.0
1.0–2.5
0.5–1.0
< 0.1
< 0.1
< 0.1
< 0.1
< 0.1
< 0.1
< 0.1
146 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
ing and how specific ingredients are
incorporated to support these claims.
In particular, these products will soothe
irritated skin and hydrate it to support
internal repair mechanisms. In this
author’s opinion, most of the botanical
additives are likely not present in sufficient quantities to elicit a cosmeceutical
effect but are instead chosen based on
antioxidant or skin-calming claims.
The information presented is taken
from publicly available sources and is
included for illustrative purposes only.
The estimated ingredient ranges are
provided as a starting point from which
formulators can build their own unique
formulas.
DermaSel Spa Totes Meer Maske
After Sun-Repair (Dead Sea mask):
This mask, shown in Figure 1, is formulated with an active ingredient complexa
comprised of butylene glycol, acetyl
tyrosine, proline, hydrogenated vegetable protein and adenosine triphosphate
to support natural skin regeneration.
The product contains lime tree blossom
extract to soothe skin and olive oil to
visibly smooth fine lines and wrinkles.
A comprehensive list of the product’s
ingredients and functions is shown in
Table 1. If used on a regular basis, the
creamy mask is said to fight against
skin-damaging sun rays.
3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment Serum:
This serum, shown in Figure 2, is said to
tone and firm the skin while nourishing
and repairing damaged skin cells. It is
formulated with sodium ascorbyl phos-phateb; ascorbyl glucoside, a vitamin C
derivative said to extend the effectiveness of the serum; and apple stem cell
technology to help promote healthy cells
and delay the look of aging. In addition,
a peptide is included to increase the production of collagen as well as a peptide
complexc to help stimulate fibroblast
a Unirepair T-43 (INCI: Butylene Glycol (and)
Acetyl Tyrosine (and) Proline (and) Hydrolyzed
Vegetable Protein (and) Adenosine Triphosphate)
is manufactured by Induchem AG.
b Stay C-50 (INCI: Sodium Ascorbyl Phosphate) is
manufactured by DSM Nutritional Products.
c Matrixyl 3000 (INCI: Water (aqua) (and)
Butylene Glycol (and) Carbomer (and)
Polysorbate-20 (and) Palmitoyl Oligopeptide
(and) Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-3) is manufactured
by Sederma.
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
