FORMULA ANATOMY DECIPHERED
Table 1. DermaSel Spa Totes Meer Maske After Sun-Repair
(Dead Sea Mask)
Ingredients
Water (aqua)
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride
Isopropyl Palmitate
Cetyl Alcohol
Glyceryl Stearate
Glycerin
Cetearyl Olivate
Sorbitan Olivate
Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil
Maris Sal (Dead Sea Salts)
Butylene Glycol
Acetyl Tyrosine
Proline
Hydrolyzed Vegetable Protein
Adenosine Triphosphate
Tocopherol
Tilia Cordata Flower Extract
Glucose
Potassium Sorbate
Sodium Benzoate
Phenoxyethanol
Propylene Glycol
Methylisothiazolinone
Fragrance (parfum)
Function
Approx.
Concentration
Carrier
Emollient
Emollient
Co-emulsifier
Emulsifier
Humectant
Skin Conditioning
Co-emulsifier
Skin Conditioning
Viscosity Modifier
Botanical Extract Carrier
Skin Conditioning, Self-tanning
Skin Conditioning
Skin Conditioning
Skin Conditioning, Antioxidant
Antioxidant
Skin Soothing
Humectant
Preservative
Preservative
Preservative
Botanical Extract Carrier
Preservative
Fragrance
qs
2–4%
2–4
2–4
2–4
2–4
1–2
1–2
1–2
0.25–0.5
0.5–1.0
< 0.1
< 0.1
0.25–0.5
< 0.1
< 0.25
< 0.1
0.25–0.5
0.25–0.5
0.25–0.5
< 0.4
0.5–1.0
< 0.4
qs
Figure 1. DermaSel Spa Totes Meer Maske
After Sun-Repair
Figure 2. 3Lab Perfect “C” Treatment
Serum
mechanisms and in varying degrees.
Botanicals are one example of functional ingredients that repair UV
damage through antioxidant effects
and the sequestering of ROS formation.
Typical botanical extracts chosen are
pomegranate, grape and berries such
as açai. While these extracts possess
antioxidant properties to neutralize
ROS formation on UV-exposed skin,
they would need to be used in active
levels greater than 0.1% to provide their
benefits topically.
Besides botanicals, peptides such as
copper tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl penta-
peptide-3 have been used to initiate skin
repair mechanisms such as: stimulating
collagen; promoting synthesis of elastin,
proteoglycans, glycosaminoglycans and
other components of the skin matrix;
stimulating capillary formation and the
ability to regulate the growth rate and
migration of different types of cells;
imparting anti-inflammatory action;
and enhancing skin defense mechanisms such as promoting the release
of oxidation-promoting iron into the
tissues as well as detoxification. Other
ingredients reported to provide repair
from UV radiation damage are vitamin C
and retinoids (e.g., retinol) in addition
to both of their analogs.
Sunscreen and Sun Repair
Patents
In relation to sun damage prevention
before, during and after UV exposure,
following are some recently issued patents relevant to this product category.
Vitamin D for after-sun repair:
Research behind this patent found that
while the increased use of sunscreens
limits damage to the DNA, it may
promote cancer growth by preventing
vitamin D synthesis in the skin.6 However, according to the invention, the
beneficial effects of UV radiation can
be obtained by incorporating vitamin D
into topical after-sun treatment lotions
and creams. Vitamin D in an after-sun
product is reportedly activated by the skin
to form calcitriol for cancer prevention
and to promote cellular growth and differentiation. Therefore, topical after-sun
products with vitamin D may also be
beneficial in preventing photoaging.
144 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
