SUN CARE FORMULARY
Research has provided indisputable evidence that UV radiation damages
the skin, leading to an increased risk of skin cancer and causing
premature skin aging. In response, as the importance of sunscreens
has increasingly been stressed, formulators have developed new and
innovative sun care formulas. While the traditional sunscreen cream is
still popular, the past few years have seen the birth of sprays and sticks,
as well as skin care and makeup containing UV filters.
In relation, Cosmetics & Toiletries magazine offers the following
collection of sun care formulas, including the most recent additions
by raw material suppliers into the online Cosmetic & Toiletries Bench
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com/cbr.
Broad-spectrum Sunscreen
(AkzoNobel Global Personal Care )
This formulation provides an SPF 27. It has passed in vivo testing and is marketed
as “very water resistant.”
A. Isohexadecane 1.50% w/w
C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate 3.00
Cyclopentasiloxane 2.25
Sorbitan Stearate 1.00
Glyceryl Stearate (and) PEG-100 Stearate (Arlacel 165, Croda Inc.) 2.00
Octocrylene 2.00
Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamate 7.50
Benzophenone-3 3.00
Zinc Oxide (and) C12–15 Alkyl Benzoate (and) Polyhydroxystearic
Acid (Spectraveil FIN, Croda Europe) 6.00
B. Dehydroxanthan Gum (Amaze XT, AkzoNobel, Global Personal Care) 0.50
C. Water (aqua) 54.25
D. Glycerin 3.00
Acrylates Copolymer (Dermacryl AQF, AkzoNobel) 4.40
E. Silica (and) Sodium Methylparaben (and) Sodium Polyacrylate
(and) Titanium Dioxide (Tioveil AQN, Croda Inc.) 7.00
F. Aluminum Starch Octenylsuccinate (Dry-Flo Pure , AkzoNobel) 2.00
DMDM Hydantoin (and) Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate
(Glydant Plus Liquid, Lipoid)
G. Citric Acid
0.60
qs
100.00
Procedure: In the main vessel, disperse B into C and mix moderately until hydrated.
Add D to BC and begin heating to 75°C. Pre-mix E and add to BCD, mixing
until uniform. In a side vessel, combine A and heat to 75°C. Add A to BCDE
and homogenize at 10,000 rpm for 1 min. Cool batch to 40°C with moderate
mixing. Add F to batch and homogenize until uniform. Cool batch to 25°C with
low mixing. Adjust pH to 7 with G.
Sun Exposure Prep Lotion
(Biophil Group)
This formulation is intended for use before sun exposure to prepare the skin for
external aggressions. Designed to maintain skin elasticity and moisturization, it
maintains balance by stimulating fibroblast production.
A. Propylene Glycol Laurate (and) Ethylcellulose (and) Propylene
Glycol Isostearate (Emulfree P, Gattefossé)
Cetearyl Alcohol
Octyl Palmitate
Decyl Oleate
Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Butter
Dimethicone
B. Water (aqua)
EDTA
Glycerin
6.00% w/w
0.50
8.00
3.00
2.00
2.00
qs to 100.00
0.10
3.00
Carbomer
Panthenol
Xanthan Gum
C. Tocopheryl Acetate
D. Sodium Hydroxide
E. Betaglucan
Water (aqua) (and) Laminaria Ochroleuca Extract
(Phycolanine, BiotechMarine) 2.00
F. Preservatives qs
Fragrance (parfum) 0.30
Procedure: Mix A and heat to 60°C with stirring. Combine B in order and heat to
75°C. Mix for 30 sec. Add A to B with stirring and mix for 5 min. Cool under
slow agitation to 45°C. Add C to AB and mix for 40 sec. Add D to batch. Cool
with slow stirring to RT. Add E and F to batch. pH of formulation should be
5.3–5.8.
0.30
0.50
0.20
0.50
qs
2.00
Clear After-sun Spray Lotion
(CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH)
A. Water (aqua) 86.50% w/w
Glycerin (and) Glyceryl Polyacrylate (Hispagel 200 NS, Cognis) 10.00
B. Water (aqua) (and) Poria Cocos Root Extract
(SyriCalm CLR, CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter) 3.00
Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol (Geogard 221, Lonza) 0.50
100.00
Procedure: Mix A and stir until completely uniform. Add B in the order and stir
until homogenous.
Sun Preparation Cream-gel for the Body
(CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH)
This o/w formulation is designed to prepare the skin for sun exposure.
A. Water (aqua) qs to 100.00%w/w
Tetrasodium EDTA 0.10
Glycerin/Propylene Glycol/PVM/MA Copolymer (Lubrajel Oil, ISP) 1.00
Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and)
Trideceth-6 (Rapi Thix A-60, ISP)
B. Dimethicone (Abil 350, Evonik Goldschmidt)
Dimethicone (DC 200 Fluid, Dow Corning)
Octyl Palmitate (Ceraphyl 368, ISP)
C12–15 Alkyl Lactate (Ceraphyl 41, ISP)
C. Glycine Soja (Soybean) Seed Extract
(Phytosan, CLR Chemisches Laboratorium Dr. Kurt Richter) 5.00
D. Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin
(euxyl PE 9010, Schülke & Mayr) 0.80
Procedure: Mix A and B separately. Stir A until homogenous and add B under
stirring until uniform. Add C and D under strirring. The pH of the formulation
should be 5.5.
1.73
4.50
3.00
1.00
2.00
This information is presented in good faith, and is believed to be correct, but no warranty as to accuracy of results or fitness for a particular use is given, nor
is freedom from patent infringement to be inferred. It is offered solely for your consideration, investigation and verification.
218 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
