COSMETIC COUNTER
READ THE LABEL
John Masters Organics
Bearberry Oily Skin
Balancing Face Serum
From a natural claim standpoint, there are no apparent
issues with this skin oil. Formulation-wise, in this author’s
opinion, a chelating agent would help to boost the efficacy
of the preservative, leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrate.
In addition, while the company includes green tea, additional antioxidants such as natural tocopherols
could benefit the product, as well as additional glycols to assist with low temperature stability—and there
are naturally derived glycols available that would allow the company to maintain a 100% natural claim.
While bearberry extract has long been used as a skin lightening ingredient due to its high level of
arbutin, it also can be used as an astringent because it tightens the skin; however, this tightening action is
not the same as sebum production regulation, as the company claims. The product’s ability to control blemishes is mainly
due to its willow bark and willow herb extracts, both of which exhibit antimicrobial activity to reduce P. acnes.
It is interesting, misleading and illegal that sodium levulinate and sodium anisate are touted as key ingredients in the
marketing literature but are not listed on the ingredient list. Sodium levulinate and sodium anisate, typically sold as a
blend, are used frequently to boost preservation in formulations. If they are truly a part of the formula composition, this
was a significant omission from the ingredient disclosure.
Ni’Kita Wilson
The viewpoints expressed in this column are those of the author and do not necessarily reflect those of Allured Business Media.
Foam Hair Color Vehicle
Procter & Gamble aims to control
messy hair color application with the
latest addition to its Clairol brand
Nice ‘n Easy at-home coloring line.
Like traditional color kits, Nice ‘n Easy
Color Blend Foam includes a tint and a
developer; however, unlike traditional
cream or liquid colorants, the tint is
formulated for delivery via a foam
vehicle. According to the company, the
foam behaves like a solid at rest and
does not drip during application. It
expands to enable consumers to easily
work it evenly into hair. Once applied,
it is designed to quickly collapse and
behave like a liquid to surround and
penetrate each strand of hair, thus
delivering color. The foam is available
in 18 shades, from light blonde to
black, 12 of which include a color
seal conditioning gloss to extend the
duration of the color.
Ingredients: Lightest Golden
Brown 6.5G: Color Blend Foam:
Water (aqua), Ethoxydiglycol,
Propylene Glycol, Isopropyl
Alcohol, Ammonium Hydroxide,
Sodium Chloride, Trisodium
Ethylenediamine Disuccinate,
Toluene-2,5-Diamine Sulfate,
Fragrance (parfum), Erythorbic Acid,
Citric Acid, Resorcinol, 4-Amino-
m-Cresol, 2-Methylresorcinol,
Sodium Sulfite, 2-Methyl-5-
Hydroxyethylaminophenol, EDTA,
m-Aminophenol. Color Blend
Activator: Water (aqua), Hydrogen
Peroxide, Acrylates/Steareth-20
Methacrylate Copolymer, Acrylates
Copolymer, Etidronic Acid, Disodium
EDTA. Color Seal Conditioning
Gloss: Water (aqua), Bis-Hydroxy/
Methoxy Amodimethicone,
Stearyl Alcohol, Cetyl Alcohol,
Stearamidopropyl Dimethylamine,
Glutamic Acid, Benzyl Alcohol,
Fragrance (parfum), Panthenyl
Ethyl Ether, EDTA, Carthamus
Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil,
Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil,
Panthenol, Hydrolyzed Sweet Almond
Protein, Trimethylsiloxysilicate,
Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice,
Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
Methylisothiazolinone.
Vol. 126, No. 3/March 2011
www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine | 141
