sunscreens shown in Tables 1 and 2
all provided effective and appropriate
proportional protection against UVA
and UVB rays. Tables 1 and 2 also
report the SPF values for UVB and UVA
radiation, and it can be deduced that
these sunscreens provided proportional
broad spectrum UVB/UVA protection
in accordance with views expressed by
dermatologists worldwide. 31
In Table 3, however, a comparison
of the basic and proportioned UVA/
UVB protection provided by the test
sunscreens reveals that those formulated
with CN as a carrier exhibited higher
levels of UVA protection than the standard sunscreen formulations (emulsions
5, 6, 10 and 11). Whereas the standard
formulas achieved a PFA of 0.19–0.25,
the sunscreens formulated with CN
measured a boosted PFA ≥ 0.34. Since
the sunscreens with CN provided a
higher PFA, they could be particularly
useful to protect sensitive skin, or for
individuals receiving dermatological
treatments. In addition, in accordance
with Japanese rules, these sunscreens
may be labelled as PA+++.
This higher PFA in CN formulations
is likely due to the right combination
of the UVB/UVA sunscreens and the
previously reported boosting activity
of CN, 32 which occurs upon binding
to the SC. 14, 32, 33 Also, when bound to
lutein, melatonin, lipoic acid and/or
ectoin in sunscreens, CN reinforce the
To provide proportional
UVA and UVB protection,
a sunscreen must protect
against the 80: 20 ratio of
UVB/UVA
incident sunlight.
While these polyglucosides could
be considered booster molecules
for improving SPF, the mechanism
behind their ability to boost PFA is
unknown—although the author hypothesizes it could be due to increased light
reflectance.
In conclusion, this natural polyg-lucoside may be used to enhance the
antiaging activity of sunscreens, thus
addressing increasing global consumer
concerns. 32, 34
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photoprotective effects by inducing
the formation of a film on the skin
that imparts a thicker, more uniform
application of the product, 27, 28 thus
improving the gradual absorption of the
active compounds in the sunscreens. In
addition, CN have been found to exhibit
antioxidant, hydrating and immuno-protective effects. 32, 33
References
Send e-mail to pierfrancesco.morganti@mavicos-metics.it.
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72 | Cosmetics & Toiletries® magazine www.CosmeticsandToiletries.com
Vol. 124, No. 9/September 2009
